hosted a small exhibition of fashion, jewelry and perfumes last January. This
exhibition was a small event, but still big enough to be the platform for
brands to promote their new releases. I bumped into completely new perfume
brand called Aether Parfums. It is
the sister brand of established Le Galion, the niche house from Paris that
celebrates French perfume tradition. Aether Parfums is complete contrast, this is
a juxtaposition to Le Galion.
advantage, I am able to smell all the perfumes of the industry. I have put lot
of miracles under my nose. I also noticed that the current trend is to make
anti-perfume, notably some fragrances by Etat Libre d’Orange, Juliette Has a
Gun, Histoires de Parfums. It also seems that the technology overpassed
traditional perfume making. Molecules are all around us and no one bothers
whether molecules or fine essences are being used as long as the stuff smells
good. Aether is modern paradigm. What does that means? It is contemporary
perfume brand that uses molecules only.
Le Galion, sister brand that is using classic components is very
ambitious project. It was acquired by Nicolas Chabot who had an idea to
re-start the big tradition of French perfumery. Le Galion is a brand
that started during the “années folles” in Paris, when the modern
perfumery was in bloom and when happened the democratization of
perfumery. The perfumer of Le Galion was the same as of Lanvin, Paul
Vacher who became famous instantly. Somewhere in 50ies and 60ies, the
brand didn’t exist anymore until the 2013, when Nicolas Chabot started
to revive it again. Actual perfumes follow the regulations of the
ingredients prohibition issued by the EU, but never the less, they are
beautiful and retro and similar to those of the ancient epoch.
After two years of big success, Nicolas decided to make something
completely opposite to Le Galion and the result is Aether perfumes. Le
Galion has opulent scents that are based mostly on natural ingredients
and the atmosphere is the one from the past century. Aether is
definitively 2016 brand with zero naturals inside and completely based
on molecules. It is 100% molecular brand that wants to show abilities of
contemporary and advanced perfumery. The molecules inside are C12, ISO E
Super and similar stuff. That is a new olfactive vocabulary that a
perfume lover needs to know. C12 is a carbon synthesis while ISO E Super
is known to the public because of Escentric Molecules.
Perfumers of this line are Amélie Bourgeois and Anso Benhagel. The two
perfumers are quite popular at this time and they are creating in Paris,
in their Flair studio. They are signing every creation of Aether
perfumes and of many other actual perfume brands.
There are some fantastic scents within the brand. The first one I would like to mention is Carboneum. Carboneum is unusual mix of of neoprene molecule It is very hard to describe it. It is sweet, but not as sweet as the smell of pralines or flowers, but unusual sweetness, glue alike. It is industrial sweetness. To me, that is the most extravagant scent of the line. I see it as the big brother of the legendary Dior Fahrenheit. It has some edgy, metallic and petrol note. Very industrial and raw scent. I like uniqueness of the scent.
Ether Oxyde is quite interesting because it is based on ISO E Super molecule which I know very well. It is transparent, woody, sweet, watery scent. It is based on ozone and oxygen notes that are soft and tender, fragile almost. It is on the trail of the great perfumes of 90ies in NYC like CK One, Kenzo or Miyake fragrances.
Citrus Ester is not complicated scent that smells fresh, stimulating and invigorating like the Axe shower gel. That type of scent works well in the USA. Very banal perfume with simple theme and easy to understand. My taste works better with more complex fragrances that this one because it smell on the lemon peel and that’s it.
Muskethanol is my second favorite after Carboneum. It is musky, completely musky perfume that reminds me of Ion Musk from Ramon Monegal. That is the same type of musk, white, light, transparent, artificial, soft. It leaves light and sweet tone on the skin similar to the body cream for nourishing of the body.
Rose Alcane is wonderful scent that really smells like a rose. It is evident that it is not a real rose inside, but it gives that smell never the less. Oriental rose lovers will be disappointed because there is no enough deepness or opulence we are used to. That is why I like it a lot – unexpectedly comfortable rose. It reminds me of the rose petals in biscuits which is one of my favorite treats.
The perfumery of tomorrow is already the perfumery of today. That is why Aether is worthwhile of testing and smelling. If you are epicurean, you can see how the molecules can smell like.