Time to rethink classicism in perfumery 



Puredistance Antonia
 The history of perfumery is so complex, yet it is possible to analyse it with the simple, modern perfume. That is exactly what the one can do on the example of Puredistance Antonia. I was writing about the approach toward perfumes through art on the example of M (expressionism) and I comparing it to the classicist literature. I left Antonia as the representative of classicism and to do so, it is necessary to look back. It is maybe one of the most important Puredistance perfume because of its symbolic value. 

J.E. Vos’s model to represent the perfume Antonia 
How is it possible to even speak of classicism? There is already the term classic floral bouquet that has been used in perfumery, but in order to present it more vivid to you, I will choose the connection with Chanel No. 5 and Cacharel Anais Anais. When we refer to classic floral bouquet, we are thinking of classic French bouquet that is composed of jasmine, rose and ylang-ylang. The first appearance of such perfume notes appeared by the early 20es of the previous century. I have adopted many ideas from Chandler Burr’s TED talk on my own TED talk in June this year at the 2013 TEDx University of Zagreb. I was also influenced by Octavian Coifan’s ideas and by the thought that Chanel No. 5 is consisted of classic French florals. To be able to experience classic French bouquet in No. 5, the one needs to pass the aldehydic wall composed of heavy aldehydes. Burr compared it with Mies van der Rohe’s Glass House – to be able to enter the house and its classic structure, the one needs to pass on the glass wall and its outer structure. The same is with the No. 5, to be able to experience it, the one needs to eliminate the aldehydes in perception and it will be possible to see that it is actually built around classic French floral bouquet on which were based many famous perfumes. Actually, the most of feminine perfumes were built on such or similar bouquets. Few decades later, Cacharel Anais Anais came out as the seductive perfume for young ladies. In 70es there was new perception of how sensuality and seduction should smell like. Aldehydes are “silenced down” while bouquet and florals are highlighted. Even for the laymen it is possible to notice the true French bouquet. By the time Cacharel’s Anais Anais came out, the understanding of florals also changed and they were left untouched. Perfumers mostly left them in their own beauty arranging just the details around it. Finally, we have Antonia as the current take on the classic bouquet. Jasmine, rose and ylang-ylang are forming creamy, soft and sublime classic French floral bouquet with its modern interpretation. Antonia is timeless as the beauty of timeless French floral bouquet. It will be rearranged from time to time, but it will still possess its original beauty. 

Jan Ewoud Vos – the founder of Puredistance

Antonia is more symbolic because the name of the mother of J.E.Vos is – Antonia. Maybe that is why Anotnia is timeless classic composed of eternal perfume notes that will never fade aways? Anyhow, let’s get back to the perfume. The perfume itself has the new aesthetics of French florals because if we follow up the timeline from No. 5 and Cacharel, this one comes as the velvety perfume as gentle as silk. Interpretation of the classic florals is creamy and soft. Jasmine, rose and ylang-ylang are wrapped into creaminess of galbanum and sweet touch of vanilla. It is very silent perfume that screams with sublime elegance and eternity. It reminds me of silky sheets, pillows and aristocracy in their garnments. Antonia is nor old nor young and that is also one of the reasons why it is a classic. Annie Buzantian’s take on this kind of perfume structure is interesting because after many various examples the perfume world has something modern that corresponds with perfume history. The most wonderful thing is that every Puredistance perfume can be interpreted through art. The heart of Antonia is composed of florals that are soft and creamy where is impossible to detect single notes. The heart is the whole composition and that is also one of the characteristics of classic French bouquet. Finishing of the perfume is also classic with soft and almost invisible touch of vetiver and vanilla. Vetiver is fresh while vanilla gives on its creaminess and delicacy.
To conclude, it is a perfume that is modern classic with interpretation of French floral bouquet that appeared in the golden times of perfumery!

Juraj, BL’eauOG

Antonia

Artistic Impression: Very good
Direction: Classicism
Type:  Floral 
Quality of the raw materials: Perfect 
Note: The perfume that is reinterpretation of classic bouquet 

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