Meet the princess of the perfumery.
The still of Sylvaine Delacourte (source:guerlain.com)

Some of the professions are considered to be the men’s work. It is possible to track the development of some professions two thousand years ago. She is definitively one of the pioneers of the high perfume industry that has always been in a shadow, but, undoubtedly, shaped the way we smell today in large proportion. She is a beautiful French lady – Sylvaine Delacourte, the director of evaluation and development in mythic Guerlain Paris.
French people are, sometimes, hard to understand. Certainly, many, with time, loose their flare and manners they used to have on the beginning. The life in Paris and meeting various charismatic people produced that sentiment, but one person stands out of the crowd and that is exactly the lady I am talking about. Sylvaine Delacourte is very special person in terms of manners, her attitude toward others, but in many things, she is very “French”. She has a deadly charm with her beautiful blue eyes, elegant moves, almost flirtatious and, above all, she appreciates the concurrence and listenst to what other creators have to say with their perfumes. That is the quality of someone who would like to develop personally and put the creation on another level. Among other things, she is writing her own personal blog Esprit de Parfum that she writes passionately: Esprit de Parfum by Sylvaine Delacourte.







Like it was said in the introduction, there are some professions that were out of domaine to women during certain epochs and with the sauffrage movement and civilisational evolution, the perception changed. One of the examples is politics. In the most simplified version, women did not have rights until recently concerning political participation. I was exploring a lot a history of perfumery and I must say that the glorious epoch during the expressionism was characterised by men. There was no significant female within perfume world until Sophia Grojsman showed up in the early 80ies. By the mid 90ies, Olivia Giacobetti marked a perfumery and later Annick Menardo (as the most significant female perfumers to me). In between the epoch of Sophia Grojsman and Olivia Giacobetti, Sylvaine Delacourte started her work in perfume world. The majority of population is not aware of her existance and therefore they’re unaware of her work, but maybe, she is one of the most significant ladies in the perfume world?
Sylvaine Delacourte moved to Paris as a young lady who was always interested into make-up and all things shiny and beautiful. Beauté was her passion and she decided to find herself in that world. First steps were in the make-up and beauty school of aesthetics where she became a director. After the work in school she took training of beauty products Podium but later on, she was going through training of visage and beauty in well renowned Lancaster. Finishing the course in Lancaster, she embarked into Guerlain as the director of make-up creations. During her role in Guerlain, she took an education on perfumes within Guerlain and she worked together, no less than Monsieur Jean Paul Guerlain himself. She was the evaluator of the perfumes. Working with Monsieur Jean Paul, she became a director of Guerlain’s perfume education that existed before and it was her who formed the school and education of Guerlain. Sylvaine was the one who envisioned the programme of the school that didn’t exist before her arrival. With the role as the head of the education program, she took management of the palette of exclusive products that were at the time called “Diversification chez Guerlain. That project was intended to make various and exclusive Guerlain products like foullards, bags, brushes… With the releasing of the L’Instant de Guerlain Féminin, She became the director of “Création Parfums Guerlain“, a creative director of Guerlain’s perfumes.

After the releasing the perfume La Petite Robe Noire to the exclusive line of perfumes, Thierry Wasser came to Guerlain to replace the legendary Jean Paul Guerlain. Since then, Sylvaine Delacourte works by the side of Thierry Wasser evaluation all the perfume and make-up creations. For example, it was her who developed a perfume for the vey popular body creams of Orchidée Impériale and Abeille Royale among others. Furthemore, she is also in charge, with Thierry Wasser, for the perfumes made sur mesure. The waiting time for the perfume made to measure with Thierry Wasser is around 1 year. She is also in charge for the perfumes made for individual collections, those are the unique perfumes made for an individual person and she creates around 5-6 perfumes per year. Those perfumes are available immediatelly.

Here is something, I could say, a bit exclusive because it was no released before – a table with the perfumers and exact dates of their creation. I believe the content will surprise you a little bit because I am sure you didn’t see some things coming due to what marketing of big companies thought us. So, here it is, Ladies and Gentlemen, the full content of Guerlain’s creations by Sylvaine Delacourte and following perfumers :
       

Year of releasing Parfums By Sylvaine and
Fournisseurs
Parfums Classiques
Aqua Allégoria
2007 Mandarine
Basilic
Marie
Salamagne
Firmenich
2005 Pivoine
magnifica
Karine
Dubreuil
Mane
2008 Laurier
Réglisse
Marie
Salamagne
Firmenich
Anisia
Bella
Aurélien
Guichard
Givaudan
Foli
Flora
Alexandra
Jouet
Takasago
Grosellina Karine
Dubreuil
Mane
2009 Tiaré
Mimosa
Sonia
Constant
Givaudan
gds
lancements
1996 Champs
Elysées
Olivier
Cresp
Firmenich
2003 L’instant Maurice
Roussel
Symrise
2007 L’instant
magic
Randa
Hammami
Symrise
2009 L’instant
magic elixir
Christophe
Raynaud
Givaudan
2004 L’instant
pour homme
Béatrice
Piquet
IFF
2006 Insolence Maurice
Roucel
Symrise
2009 Insolence
eau glacée
Randa
Hammami
Symrise
2007 My
insolence
Christophe
Raynaud
Quest
= Givaudan
2008 Guerlain
Homme
Thierry
Wasser
Firmenich
Travel
retail
2002 With
Love
Christine
Nagel
Quest
= Givaudan
2004 Love
is all
Christophe
Raynaud
Symrise
2003 Precious
Heart
Frank
Volk
Symrise
Offres Exclusives
Art
et la matière
2005 Cuir
Beluga
Olivier
Polge
IFF
2005 Rose
Barbare
Francis
Kurjian
Takasago
2005 Angélique
Noire
Daniela
Andrier
Givaudan
2006 Bois
d’arménie
Annick
Menardo
Firmenich
2007 Iris
Ganache
Thierry
Wasser
Firmenich
2008 Cruel
Gardénia
Randa
Hammami
Symrise
Elixirs
Charnels
2008 Chypre
Fatal
Christine
Nagel et Aurélien Guichard
Givaudan
2008 Oriental
Brûlant
Christine
Nagel et Aurélien Guichard
Givaudan
2008 Gourmand
Coquin
Christine
Nagel et Aurélien Guichard
Givaudan
2009 Boisé
Torride
Christine
Nagel 
Fragrance
resources
Editions
Evennement
2007 Quand
Vient la pluie
Thierry
Wasser
Firmenich
2009 La
petite robe noire
Delphine
Jelk
Drom
Parfums
d’ambiance 
Bougies
2005 Boudoir
Vénitien
Pierre
Bourdon
Fragrance
resources
2005 Hiver
en Russie
Frank Volk Symrise
2005 Conte
Tahitien
Frank Volk Symrise
Autre
2006 Eau
de Lit
Francis
Kurjian
Takasago
Looking at the table, what is there to conclude but take the hats of to Sylvaine Delacourte! Every perfume made is a little masterpiece and it is mostly signed to perfumer only. There are also some other perfumes for which I can’t classify with a year and the ligne so I will add it like this :

La Petite Robe Noir for the Exclusive Collection

Eau de Cologne 68, Syvlaine and Sophie Labbe, Firmenich
Aqua Allegoria Gentiana, Sylvaine in collaboration with Firmenich
Candle Foret de Sumatra, Sylvaine with Norbert Bijaoui
Secret Intention and Filthre d’Amour, Sylvaine in collaboraton with Firmenich, Editions Limitées
Petit Guerlain, Baby Guerlain, Sylvaine with Olivia Giacobetti, editions discontinued
Mon Précieux Nectar, Sylvaine and Randa Hammami
The list of works of Sylvaine Delacourte is still not completed due to the various reasons and signatures by other perfume makers, but Karl Popper and Thomas Kühn would say that critical mind searching for the truth would never stop to seek it. Therefore, there are some famous perfumes in her collection, I think…  
With this empiric data, we could conclude that Sylvaine Delacourte is one of the most significant ladies in the perfume world that has always been in a shadow. One more reason to support that fact is her role-position of the evaluation and development – she is the one to determine what perfume goes to which market. That is an indirect impact on the consumers and the way we smell, but above all, setting up the trends. This lady, unjustedly put aside, influences us up on imaginary way whether we want it or not. Let me give you another example. The glorious line of exclusives – l’Art et la Matière are completely personal line of Sylvaine Delacourte that she realized with some perfumers. All of the perfumes have her own story. Let me demistify Bois d’Armenie for which she thinks is a beautiful scent on men. It has nothing to do with the state Armenie but with the scented paper called armenie that her mother burnt in the nord of France. It was an ambiance perfume.
We can say now that perfumery has many talented people but also, we can say that the talent of Sylvaine Delacourte is without any question – her understanding of perfumery and her visions how perfume should be made. Also, she is a complete person with her firm character, kindness and beautiful, beautiful gestures with her deadly charm. For everything she did, we can say a big thank you Sylvaine Delacourte!!
Juraj, BL’eauOG
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Written by juraj
My name is Juraj Sotosek-Rihtarec and I am the only person that runs this BL’eauOG. BL’eauOG is the play of words meaning “blog” and “eau” which means “water” in French, allusion to “Eau de Parfum” for example, and you read it simply as “bloog”. I started my blog several years ago and I imagined it as a place where I can express my critics on the world of fine perfumes. You can find new perfume reviews, interviews, articles about the perfume and something very interesting – video campaigns I did for perfume brands and olfactive dinners which I regularly do (dinner inspired with perfumes). I studied two Masters, one in Croatia and second one in Paris, which enabled me to become the insider of the industry. Life in Paris changed my opinion about perfumes and consequently, my taste changed. I am most proud of being a TED lecturer. I hope you will enjoy this blog and my articles on perfumes.