The
Chanel No. 5 which is sold every 55 seconds in the world, gives us a reason to
talk about the madness that has been ongoing since 1921. Fifth
in May of that year, the sale was released for the best-selling and most
popular perfume in the world. It
seems that the number was 5 really happy for Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel,
because the number has brought unprecedented glory of Parisian fashion house. It all
started with 100 bottles donated by Coco on Christmas 1921. Their
most loyal customers, and the story continued through the WWII to the present
empire of the ‘Fifth’ in millions of copies. The
perfume which so influenced the future creations of a perfumes for women took
its place in the culture. In
support of this goes a tribute to the cult creation of the Museum D’Orsay in
Paris by the museum’s facade which is decorated with 1200 crystal and gold
plates in the form of legendary bottle. Among
other things, the bottle never really been a part of MOMA’s, but still found
herself in her 1959 exhibition.





 Gabrielle
wanted to make a revolutionary fragrance. She
wanted to create “artificial” synthetic scent that does not smell
like anything similar what was created. Her
then-lover, Dmitri Romanov, the members of the Russian imperial family said it
wants too. “Yes,
I want something artificial, like a dress, which is the finished product. I
do not want to smell the bouquet of roses or field of Lillys, I want a perfume
as a whole. “It is thought that all components are in” their place
“and that nothing jumps out of the composition, ie, that not one
ingredient does not dominate over another. And
so it was, Dmitri met her with Ernest Beaux, creator of the iconic fragrance. No.
5 he was given a name because it was a lucky number for Coco, but also because
it was the fifth formula in a
row, which is designed and the fromula she liked. It
was created based on the aldehydes, which, according to legend, accidentally
were overdosed by Beauxovog pupil and therefore it is strong, such a database
was not in the original formula. That
juice began to live in a minimalist bottle with an amber liquid, which symbolizes
sensuality of unbreakable female spirit.

Why has perfume
achieved such fame? Why
does everyone went crazy for him? All
are waiting for a new collaboration with cheap fashion houses like Lanvin and
Versace for H&M and Kate Moss for Top Shop. These
are good moves for those houses because such contracts provide profit increased
by 50%. Collections
are booked in advance, and all are sold on the same day of arrival. For
example, in Ljubljana for Jimmy Choo shoes went the same day and buyers stood
in line at night. Is it a
cultural phenomenon? Of course not. The
day after dawn there is a small article on how people were “insane”
and all “picked up” everything off the shelf. If
you act like that manages to remain constant after 90.years, then we can
certainly say that it promotes to the general culture. Since
from its appearance till today, the perfume caused controversy and delight of
many. He
remained in the spotlight for decades, and starts a life style. Greatest
popularity petition was added to the following statement: “In bed, I’m
wearing only a few drops of Chanel No. 5 “- Marilyn Monroe 

 

 It
can be seen as a cultural shock, because this statement has caused a million
sales in the coming days. All women wanted to
smell like her, as a diva Marilyn. It
has changed the paradigm of the culture of consumption of luxury products as
perfumes fall into this category. The
“smell” is no longer any distinction between rich and poor. Everybody wants to have this
sensuality. After
that, the first lady of Hollywood that was face of No. 5 was Nicole Kidman, and
currently is Audrey Tatou. Is
it still too much consumerism, commercialization and whether the perfume
actually something has changed, judge for yourself. But
what we can determine is that it occupies a special place in their history and
culture. Nobody
can deny that it is not revolutionary in its very existence, and that spirit of
No. 5 continues to live. It would be nice to find
myself in Paris 5.5 …
 

Mislim da je najbolje započeti prvi post s apsolutnim klasikom i da tu nema greške 😉 
Pošto se parfem Chanel s brojem 5 proda svakih 55
sekundi u svijetu, onda zasigurno možemo govoriti o ludilu koje traje još od
1921.. Petog svibnja te godine, u prodaju je pušten najprodavaniji i
najpopularniji parfem na svijetu. Izgleda da je broj 5 zaista vrlo sretan za Gabrielle „Coco“ Chanel jer je taj broj
donio neviđenu slavu pariškoj modnoj kući. Sve je počelo s 100 bočica koje je Coco darovala na Božić 1921. svojim
najvjernijim kupcima, a priča se nastavila kroz radzboblje Drugog svjetskog
rata, sve do današnjeg carstva Petice u milijunima primjeraka. Parfem koji je
toliko utjecao na buduće stvaranje parfema za žene i koji je toliko proširen,
zauzima svoje mjesto u općoj kulturi. U prilog tome ide i odavanje počasti toj
kultnoj kreaciji od strane muzeja D’Orsay u Parizu time što je pročelje muzeja
ukrašeno s 1200 kristalnih i zlatnih pločica u obliku legendarne bočice. Između
ostalog, bočica nikada zapravo nije bila dio poznate MOMA-e, no ipak se našla u
njezinoj izložbi 1959.g..
 Gabrielle
je željela napraviti jedan revolucionaran miris. Htjela je stvoriti
„umjetan“, sintetički miris koji ne miriši ničem sličnom do tad, to je i
napravila. Svojem tadašnjem ljubavniku, Dmitriju
Romanovu
, pripadniku ruske carske obitelji rekla je što želi. „Da, želim
nešto umjetno, poput haljine, što je gotov proizvod. Ne želim da miriši na
buket ruža ili polja liljana, ja želim parfem kao cjelinu.“ Pritom je mislila
da sve komponente budu na „svom mjestu“ i da ništa ne iskače iz kompozicije,
tj. da niti jedan sastojak ne dominira nad drugim. I tako ju je Dmitri upoznao
s Ernestom Beauxom, tvorcem tog
kultnog parfema. Broj 5 mu je dan kao ime iz razloga što je to bio sretan broj
za Coco, ali i zbog toga što je to
bila 5. formula po redu koja je osmišljena i koja joj se svidjela. Parfem je
napravljen na bazi aldehida, koji su, prema legendi, slučajno predozirani od
strane Beauxovog učenika te je zbog toga jak, a takva baza nije bila u
originalnoj formuli. Tako je zaživila minimalistička bočica s jantarnom
tekućinom, koja simbolizira putenost neslomljivoga ženskog duha.
Zašto je parfem
postigao takvu slavu? Zašto su svi poludili za njim? Svi čekaju da novo ime
kreira za neku jeftinu modnu kuću poput Lanvina
i Versacea
za H&M ili Kate Moss za Top Shop. To su dobri potezi takvih kuća jer im takvi ugovori
osiguraju profit uvećan za 50%. Kolekcije se rezerviraju unaprijed, i sve se
proda na dan dolaska iste. Npr., u Ljubljani
se za Jimmy Choo cipele išlo i dan
ranije te se stajalo u redu i po noći. Je li to kulturni fenomen? Naravno da
nije. Dan poslije osvane omanji članak kako je narod „poludio“ i sve „pokupio“
s polica. Ako čin poput toga uspije ostati konstanta već 90.g., onda zasigurno
možemo reći kako se to promiče u opću kulturu. Od svog pojavljivanja do danas,
parfem je izazivao kontroverze i oduševljenja mnogih. Ostao je u spotlightu već desetljećima i počinje
predstavljati stil života. Najveću popularnost Petici je pridodala slijedeća
izjava: „U krevetu nosim samo nekoliko kapi Chanela No. 5.“ – Marylin Monroe.
 To možemo smatrati kulturnim šokom, jer je ta
izjava prouzrokovala milijunsku prodaju u narednim danima. Svi su željeli
mirisati kao ona, kao diva Marylin. To je promijenilo paradigmu kulturu
potrošnje luksuznih proizvoda, jer parfemi spadaju u tu kategoriju. Sada i niži
slojevi žele „mirisati“, više nije bilo razlika između bogatih i siromašnih.
Svi si žele priuštiti tu senzualnost. Nakon toga, prva holivudska dama koja je
bila njegovo zaštitno lice je Nicole
Kidman
, a trenutno je to Audrey
Tatou
. Da li je danas preveliki potrošački konzumerizam, komercijalizacija
te da li je parfem zaista nešto i promijenio, prosudite sami. No ono što se
može utvrditi jest da zauzima svoje posebno mjesto u povijesti i kulturi.
Unatoč svemu, i dalje je divno gledati dive kako nanose senzualnost iz bočice
na sebe. Nitko ne može osporiti da nije revolucionaran u samom svom postojanju
i da će duh Petice živjeti i dalje. Bilo bi se lijepo zateći u Parizu 5.5…
Must watch!!!!
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Written by juraj
My name is Juraj Sotosek-Rihtarec and I am the only person that runs this BL’eauOG. BL’eauOG is the play of words meaning “blog” and “eau” which means “water” in French, allusion to “Eau de Parfum” for example, and you read it simply as “bloog”. I started my blog several years ago and I imagined it as a place where I can express my critics on the world of fine perfumes. You can find new perfume reviews, interviews, articles about the perfume and something very interesting – video campaigns I did for perfume brands and olfactive dinners which I regularly do (dinner inspired with perfumes). I studied two Masters, one in Croatia and second one in Paris, which enabled me to become the insider of the industry. Life in Paris changed my opinion about perfumes and consequently, my taste changed. I am most proud of being a TED lecturer. I hope you will enjoy this blog and my articles on perfumes.